Best Parrot Houses UK: Safe Huts, Beds and Hideaways

We chose these parrot houses by type and by the materials and sizes named in each listing, such as wood, plush or fleece and cage mounted fixings. No stock, review or testing claims are made.

Which Type of Parrot House Is Safest?

A plain wooden parrot house is usually the safest choice, because it is sturdy, easy to inspect and gives your bird something natural to chew. Choose untreated wood with no varnish, paint or glue that could be swallowed. Plush, fleece and snuggle huts feel cosy, but parrots can pull out fibres and swallow them, which may cause crop or gut blockages. If you use a soft hut, check it daily and remove it at the first sign of fraying. Metal fixings should be stainless steel and fully tightened, as zinc or loose parts can be harmful. To compare, measure your bird from head to tail tip in cm and look for an entrance it can pass through without squeezing, plus a roof high enough for it to turn around inside. Avian vets often suggest removing houses if a bird becomes territorial or hormonal.

How Do These Parrot Houses Compare?

The table shows who each parrot house suits and one detail from its listing, such as wood or plush. Measure your bird from head to tail tip first so you can rule out houses that are too small.

Can a Parrot House Cause Hormonal Behaviour?

Yes, a parrot house can trigger hormonal behaviour in some birds, because a dark, enclosed space looks like a nest site. Signs include guarding the house, biting, regurgitating, excessive screaming and, in females, laying eggs. Breeding and nesting boxes are meant for paired birds in a breeding set up and are not suited to most pet parrots. If you notice these changes, take the house out for a few weeks and see whether behaviour settles. Sleeping houses and open huts are less likely to cause problems than deep boxes. Keeping a regular day length of around 10 to 12 hours of light with a covered cage at night also helps. To compare designs, look at how enclosed each parrot house is: an open fronted hut is safer for single pet birds than a box with a small round hole. Ask an avian vet if hormonal behaviour continues.

What Size Parrot House Does Your Bird Need?

Your parrot house should let your bird walk in, turn around and sit upright without its tail touching the walls. A budgie or cockatiel needs a much smaller house than an African grey, macaw or cockatoo, so size is the first thing to check. Measure your parrot from the top of the head to the tail tip in cm, then look for an internal height and depth that comfortably fit that length. Check the entrance width too, as a tight hole can damage feathers. Larger parrots chew hard, so thicker wood lasts longer. Make sure the house fits inside your cage without blocking perches, food bowls or the door, and that your bird still has plenty of open space to climb and flap. Measure the gap between cage bars and the space you plan to use, then pick a cage mounted design that fits.

Where Should You Put a Parrot House in the Cage?

Place a parrot house high in the cage, near a favourite perch, so your bird can step in and out easily without climbing over food or water bowls. Fix it firmly to the bars using the supplied stainless steel fittings, and check it does not wobble when your parrot lands on it. Keep it away from food and water bowls so droppings do not fall in. Leave enough open space for your bird to stretch, flap and climb, as a house should never take over the cage. Avoid placing it directly against a window or radiator, where it may become too hot or draughty. If your parrot starts guarding the house or becomes nippy, try moving it to a different spot or removing it for a while. Inspect the inside weekly for damp, droppings and chewed pieces, and replace wooden houses once they become thin or splintered. Introduce a new house slowly so a nervous bird does not become stressed.

For related kit, read our guide to parrot foraging toys or the parrot cages guide.

Frequently Asked Questions

Last reviewed: 23 October 2026.